Ilê a Vache - Haiti

Think back how life was 100 years ago and this island off the south coast of mainland Haiti will closely resemble many of those traditions. With limited electricity, cars or running water you really felt like the clock stopped moving forward here many years ago.

Upon arriving on this island 20 dug our canoes made from mango trees approached our boat before we even have the hook down. Many of the young boys were speaking Creole which is the native language. They were showing mangos and asking us if we needed various services. Once anchored we spoke to each one at a time and sorted out what we actually needed. We agreed that one guys would get us fuel while the other would be our guide into the fresh market in the morning.

The market was further town the coast in a town called Madame Bernard. The market was bustling with vendors of all kind including fruits and vegetables placed all along the ground for sale. We exchanged some US dollars for the local currency Goud and set out to buy some produce. The market floor was all mud from a recent morning rain and most Haitian people did not wear shoes. Donkeys carried the items in heavy loads from place to place and the house were small shelters with thrashed roofs. After the market, we went to a local orphanage for Bella to see the kids. We met two young boys that enjoyed Bella tricks. Overall this part of Haiti seemed safe but we were glad we were with our guide.

One afternoon while puttering around the boat on a sunny day, dark clouds formed in the sky and it started to roll in the direction of the wind. The approaching storm went from zero to full on in less then 5 minutes and it started to rain so heavy it was coming sideways. The wind picked up to over 40knots and blew the boat over enough to rip the anchor right up from the seabed. I’m looking up with the limited visibility we saw a large catamaran beside us rip right by as it appears they were dragging as well. We both fired up our engines and tried our best to keep pointed into the wind to prevent from being blown out to sea or worse into each other. In the thick of the storm, we saw the dug out canoes coming out towards us and they came aboard to help us take up the anchor and move to a more sheltered location. With Steve on the helm, we pulled up the anchor after tremendous effort and heading into the bay out of the wind. We got the anchor back down and realized it didn’t set so we tired off to a mooring ball in the corner of the mangroves. Finally safe. Although this was an extremely scary situation for us at the time, it taught us a valuable lesson.. always pick an area to anchor that is the most sheltered and be ready at all times for a unpredicted storm to come through. If we weren’t on the boat that day she may not have weathered the storm... In the days to follow, we had rain come through almost everyday but luckily nothing as strong as the previous storm. We had a rainstorm come through the night and as it got lighter we went up on deck while it was still dark to check the condition of everything. The dingy and motor were gone. Missing. No where to be found. Stolen... we decided to wait until the sun came up to go search for it. We looked in the bay for a few hours and with no luck went back and put the word out that is was gone. We then found out that this was the 3rd dingy in the last few months to be stolen from this area none of which was reported on the internet. The motor was securely locked to the dingy but unfortunately only tied and not locked to the boat. For days we had people help us look, and finally the dingy was found and returned in the mangroves with the motor gone. We later heard it was repainted and sold. Although this was an unfortunate event it was another valuable learning lesson to lock everything up regardless on how safe you think the area is! In the days to follow we into the mainland Les Cayes to get some supplies. The process to get there turned out to be quite interesting.. first you board a packed “water taxi” in a 20ft Jamaican boat that used to be used to run drugs. Once out in the open sea the waves come over the boat so they roll out a tarp that you get some minimal shelter from. If your prone to seasickness, this would not be a trip you would enjoy.. the boat took about 30 min to cross the channel and stopped one about 100 feet from land with no dock in sight. Without further instruction, we were moved to a smaller boat with long paddles where we were taken to about 15ft from shore. Once there men would take each person on the backs to carry you to the shoreline while they were in waist deep water. Although very unique the system was actually very effective and we guess keeps about 10 guys employed. The town itself was  bustling with each person on a mission. Motos littered the roads which we used to get around to the places that were too far to walk. There didn’t seem to be too many rules of the road as it was a somewhat organized chaos with people selling items on the streets and motos and cars going by some with a beer in their hand. Once we got to the bank an armed guard with an assault rife was stationed outside which reminded you where you were.

The following Sunday morning, our new friend Pastor Bideaux offered to bring us to his church. He has been living and preaching in Haiti for over 30 years. The church was in a small community that we had to take a boat to. The Pastor welcomed our presence and we each had a chance to speak. We both said how gracious and welcoming the Haitian people were and the all clapped for us. The Mass was full of passionate music where everyone sang along. Even through the procession was in creole it was inspiring to feel the passion people had towards their faith. At the end of the mass everyone shook hands and greeted each other. We later found out that in the same church we were in, the entire community had used it to take shelter from previous hurricanes that ripped through Haiti and everyone had survived. Surely a resilient group of people! On our last night there, we went into town to have a traditional Haitian meal at a restaurant with fellow cruisers we had met. Fresh caught fish and chicken, rice, best salad and stew where a few of the dishes served. All of this was cooked over an open fire! The lady who owed the restaurant had many kids who were orphans that she adopted that really seemed to enjoy our company. By the end of the night, the family was gathered around looking through our wedding album with happy warm smiles! This alone made the trip to Haiti worth it. People here live the simple and seemingly uncomplicated life and although they may not have much, they are strong and caring people who have a determination! After Many valuable lessons learned and new friends made, we left to see the other side of the island Dominican Republic. Haiti will always be memorable and never forgotten place.