Entering Guna Yala Territory

We left the Sapzurro Bay at day break in calm waters and beautiful weather. This was our last stop in Columbia before entering Panamanian waters. Just before was rounded Cabo Tiburon and entered Panama, the Columbian coast gaurd (armada national) stopped us to check our papers and search our boat. This was the third time we were stopped in Columbian waters to have our boat searched by the coast gaurd. The war on drugs still rages on in these areas and all boats are treated as serious suspects. The Armada is always extremely friendly and courteous so it's never been a scary or intimidating process. This time, they just asked to see our papers and let us carry on without a search.

We entered Panama early morning to begin the 3 hour clear in process in Puerto Obaldia. Everyone was really friendly here and seemed apologetic for the complicated and time consuming process. We left Puerto Obaldia and made our way north about 10nm. The shoreline was now completely filled with jungle. There were no buildings or civilization of any kind in sight. Islands started popping up all along the horizon, some filled with dense jungle, other palm trees and some just sand or rock. We navigated extremely carefully. All four boats staying close together to make sure we didn't accidentally discover an uncharted reef. This was a real concern in this area since the charts here were done so long ago and are often pretty inaccurate.

We entered a large bay surrounded by untouched jungle. The area was now covered in mist and clouds. As we dropped the anchor the rain began to pour, instantly letting us know that this was the rainforest. We could hear howler monkeys on the coast roaring. Their calls were soon totally drowned out by the sound of the pouring rain.

When the rain and mist cleared we could see what looked like two little thatched houses build right on to the water. We saw dugout canoes emerge and start to make their way over to us. Fortunately, 2 out of the 7 cruisers we were with spoke Spanish so we were able to talk to the people in theses boats. There were three Guna men named Richard, Lester and Jon. They told us that these houses were like a hunting and fishing lodge located about 10nm from their village. So, they'd come out here and hunt and fish for a few days before going back home. They brought us fresh smoked fish and yucca, and we gave them beer and cigarettes.

Andy the solo sailor on WolfPack has two composite bows onboard for hunting. We showed them to the Gunas and they offered to take us through the Jungle on one of their hunting tracks. They said we'd hopefully see some wild boar and bush meat (monkeys). Although I had some reservations about eating a vegetarian diet and bow hunting wild monkeys, this was not an experience I could pass up. So, Andy, Ryan and I met up in the morning to get in some target practice before the hunt. We set up three coconuts as our targets. The only thing I managed to kill was two of the arrows due to loosing them in the forest. After a couple hours we were ready to go...

Jon and Lester picked me up in their boat while Ryan, Andy and Richard went off in the other. We paddled through a mangrove forest and to a clearing on shore. We bush whacked through the Jungle for several hours walking through rivers, thick mud and slicing though brush with machetes. Since I had no rubber boots and poisonous snakes were a concern, I fashioned up some 'snake guards' using fresh astroturf from Bella's pee pad inventory. I cut knew high pieces and wrapped them around my legs with tape. The Guna's had a good laugh at me but the piece of mind alone was worth it.

We didnt see any boar or monkeys, but we heard some howler monkeys and tried to stalk them. We couldn't follow them through a really dense part of the jungle and lost them. All in all it was a hell of a nature walk and a great time.

The next day Lester, Jon and Richard took us to see their village. They took us to their home and gave us a beautiful Mola. These are traditional embroidered designs and worn by the women. Apparently the designs are based on dreams they've had and show their creativity, craftsmanship and individuality. We don't have many pictures of the villages because its considered rude to take them there.

The photo of the 12 people on the canoe next to our boat was taken next to another Guna village. This boat filled with ladies and school kids came by to ask us something. They tried speaking to me in Spanish and I was lost... I could tell they were really disappointed by me not understanding. Then the woman speaking for the group said 'chocolate?' and I replied 'ahh! momento' and headed into the boat. The whole boat started cheering as I went down. I came back up with some mints for everyone. A far cry from chocolate but it was all we had. They seemed very happy.